The remains of Greyfriars Franciscan Friary will one day disappear into the North Sea but probably not for a few hundred years.
It’s the last day walking the Suffolk Coast Path and to complete the walk will mean a fairly long circular and thankfully summer is hanging on. I am banking on a fine day to explore Dunwich and its environs. Dunwich was once an important medieval town on the Suffolk coast but in the last thousand years much of it has been lost to the North Sea and only a fraction of the place now survives. I’m parking on Southwold Common on a glorious sunny autumn morning and setting off passing the two prominent water towers before crossing Woodsend Marshes to reach the line of houses beside the River Blyth. An earlier high tide has been almost up to the houses which would have made my route more difficult if I had timed it wrong. To cross the River Blyth I walk via the old railway bridge, now used as a footbridge and on the far side I’m striking out across low heath land of Walberswick Common and have the whole place to myself as I cross the B1387. This is part of the Sandlings Walk, another recreational path which runs from the edge of Ipswich to Southwold and I plan to walk it sometime in the future. Next I join a minor lane southwest to elaborate Westwood Lodge. The present building dates from the 16th century and is believed to be haunted. I continue on a good woodland track to reach Newdelight Walks and here I turn sharp left then right to continue with the Sandlings Walk path through Dunwich Forest. With so many forest tracks I have to pay attention to the route text in my guidebook as well as the map as it is so easy to take a wrong turn and the way-markers are often well hidden in the undergrowth. Close to Potton Hall, I find a bench to stop for my morning break.
Early morning by the River Blyth near Southwold close to the start of this walk.
Setting out to cross the extensive Walberswick Common on a perfect autumn morning with good easy paths to follow.
My walk continues through heath land interspersed with a few clearings as I make my way towards Dunwich Heath. Here I have a little duplication from the previous day’s walk and turning north, I now joined the Suffolk Coastal Path at the point where I left it yesterday. It is now simply a case now of filling the gap to Southwold.
I follow a path through woodland and later a diversion slightly further inland takes me to the remains of Greyfriars Franciscan Friary. The ruins lie in the middle of a field surrounded by a substantial boundary wall. On the seaward side I make a small diversion to visit the last surviving grave of the now gone All Saints Church. The grave of Jacob Forster dating from the 18th century lies close to the crumbling cliff top. A century ago the church was still standing albeit in a ruinous state and time lapse photographs in the Dunwich Museum shows the last years of the church. I wander down to the village and briefly make a detour out to the beach before heading up the village street. The museum is worthy of a visit and I spend awhile reading about the fascinating history of this once medium size medieval town, now largely lost to the sea.
The last grave in the churchyard of All Saints Church at Dunwich. The cliff edge can be just seen beyond. The remains of Jacob Forster will soon disappear into the North Sea. the church was lost to the North Sea around a hundred years ago.
At the western end of the village I stop at St James’s Church which is now the last surviving church in the village. In the grounds are the remains of the leper chapel and the last fragment of All Saints Church which has been re-erected in the churchyard. A seat outside the church is a good spot to stop for lunch.
Continuing my journey north, I now follow a good track bounded on my left by Dunwich Forest and on my right by the Dingle Marshes. Beyond Dingle Stone House I emerge onto the marshes following a good path which I gather in unfavourable conditions could easily flood. It’s a glorious afternoon as I head towards Walberswick briefly following the beach for a short distance. Before reaching the mouth of the River Blyth, I turn inland where I rest awhile by the foot ferry crossing but I have no intention of using as this would be cheating. A woman comes out of the hut to row a few passengers across the river and has to fight against the outgoing tide. Rowing hard upstream as she crosses the river she skilfully lets the boat drifts towards the far bank.
To complete my walk I set off along the southern embankment of the River Blyth and here the river is full of colourful moored boats. About a mile upstream I cross via the ex-railway cum footbridge I had used at the start of my walk. Following the north bank I wander down through boatyards and chandlery businesses before turning towards Southwold alongside Town Marshes.
Entering the town I take a right then left turn to reach Gun Hill passing a line of historic cannons. These cannons commemorate the indecisive sea battle of Sole Bay fought in 1672 between the British and the French fleets on one side and the Dutch on the other. In World War I the Germans though the historic cannons lined along the cliff top were a defence system and hence the area took a heavy bombardment, but in World War II the cannons were removed for safe keeping during the hostilities.
Finally leaving this coastal trail I turn inland pausing by the impressive white lighthouse which is open to the public on certain days and then I visit to the large parish church of St Edmund’s one of the finest churches in Suffolk. It took sixty years to build the church between 1430 and 1490 and is now a grade one listed building. After this a short walk leads me back to the car hence completing another long distance trek.
The Cicerone Guide ‘Suffolk Coast and Heaths Walks’ was the companion book on my walk along the Suffolk coast. The book describes the route from north to south however I was following the route in the opposite direction.
Walking between Dunwich and Southwold the path runs across the marshes and has a good surface the whole way but I can imagine that it could well flood after bad weather. Old ruinous windmills like the one in the picture dot the marshes.
Colourful boats line the River Blyth in this picture which looks towards Southwold.
Ancient cannon line the cliff top at Gun Hill at Southwold.
Probably the most photographed view in Southwold. The Sole Bay Inn with the lighthouse behind. A fitting place to end this walk.